GRUPPER AND GARNBRET LEAD GOLD IN BRIANÇON
The 2022 Lead Briançon World Cup of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) concluded this evening, in the heart of the French Alps. In the twelfth straight year an IFSC World Cup has been held in the city, Olympian Janja Garnbret of Slovenia and Jesse Grupper of the USA each climbed to victory and a gold medal .
Fighting his way to the highest hold to grab in the men’s final, Grupper firmly placed himself atop the podium with a score of 37 and as such won the first ever Cup gold medal. of the world of his career. In doing so, the American has won a full set of gold, silver and bronze medals in the 2022 Lead season so far, having won silver in Villars, Switzerland, and bronze. in Innsbruck, Austria.
“I am still in shock and super excited! I feel like it was probably one of the worst climbs of my life in some ways, but I was also so excited to keep fighting every move and it felt so good to pull it off,” Grupper said with a grin from ear to ear.
“It was very intense and I was very nervous about this move, but I was just like ‘you just have to take this next take and you’ll be fine, you just have to do a movement more’. I think just having that mentality paid off in the end,” he added.
Japan’s Homma Taisei took second place with 35+, winning his second consecutive World Cup silver medal – having also achieved a podium position in Chamonix, France, earlier this month. The Japanese athlete now has four IFSC World Cup medals to his name, having picked up another silver in 2019 and gold at the 2022 IFSC Lead Villars World Cup.
German Olympian Alexander Megos won the final medal in the men’s event, claiming bronze with the same score as Homma. Megos placed lower than Homma due to his score in yesterday’s semi-final. A bronze medal put the Olympian on a World Cup podium for the first time this season – his last medal being at the 2021 IFSC Lead Villars World Cup.
Megos’ teammate, Yannick Flohé, finished fourth, which tied Homma and Megos’ score, but again placed lower due to his semi-final result. American Olympian Colin Duffy finished fifth with 34+, followed by Japan’s Ogata Yoshiyuki in sixth with the same score. In his first final in the lead, Italian Filip Schenk finished seventh with 27. Britain’s Hamish McArthur took eighth with 25, and Slovenia’s Luka Potocar finished the competition in ninth, with 18+.
For the complete final results of the leaders, click here.
The podium of the Men’s Lead event in Briançon, France
Photo: Lena Drapella/IFSC
With her fingertips brushing the top grip, Olympic gold medalist Janja Garnbret threw herself into first place in the women’s final. With a score of 42+, the Olympian obtained the 53rd World Cup medal in his career to date – his 36e gold. By winning four of the four possible World Cups so far this season, Garnbret won his 22n/a gold medal in the lead, putting the Slovenian third in the all-time World Cup standings behind South Korean Jain Kim, with 29 wins, and Austria’s Angela Eiter with 25.
“I was really excited, from the observation, the course looked super cool and I really enjoyed climbing. Some footage looked tricky to watch, but then everything was fine – climbable and super cool. said Garnbret after winning the gold medal.
Olympian Seo Chaehyun of South Korea won the silver medal with a score of 41+, climbing to the World Cup podium for the tenth time since her senior debut in 2019. The world champion in title has won three medals so far this season. , winning silver in Innsbruck and bronze in Chamonix.
In third place was American Natalia Grossman, who finished the competition with 41 and won her second lead medal of the year – having won six medals in Boulder’s 2022 season. Tonight, the American picked up her sixteenth World Cup medal to date.
Grossman’s matching score was her teammate – Olympian Brooke Raboutou – who finished in fourth place due to her lower score than Grossman in the semifinals. Japan’s Tanii Natsuki and Italian Olympian Laura Rogora each scored 37+, but placed fifth and sixth respectively when counting back to the previous round. Vita Lukan of Slovenia placed seventh with a score of 18+, matched by Japan’s Nakagawa Ryu, who placed eighth.
For the full final results of the women in the lead, click here.
The podium of the women’s Lead event in Briançon, France
Photo: Lena Drapella/IFSC
After a break in August, the final three competitions of the 2022 IFSC World Cup Series will take place in September, starting with Lead in Koper, Slovenia, September 2-3. News and updates on the event will be available on the IFSC website and on the Federation’s social media profiles: Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.